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Goa, at least to the contemporary Indian middle class imagination, renders a rather monochromatic picture, one of beaches, beer and unabashed, intoxicated revelry. This is a shame, that a place possessed of such natural and historical riches for the interested traveller is reduced to a caricature (sometimes literally, as in the illustrations we find on the walls of both upscale hotels and seedy, ramshackle little bars). Before visiting Goa two months ago, I found myself frantically looking for material to read before travelling to a state I’d never been to before. The recommendation I had was Farrar Far, a scholarly tome I figured I had to get to a decent library to read. Filing that for another time, I poked around the internet and found what I think is the best book for the literary traveller (of the Indian variety) to approach Goa (Please correct me if I’m wrong. I would love recommendations; Goa fascinates me endlessly). Part of the singularly delightful series of city centred anthologies Penguin started bringing out almost a decade ago, Reflected in Water more than does justice to the project, which is to educate a traveller new to its shores about this rather misunderstood and misrepresented sliver of India. The pieces collected here (by Jerry Pinto, whose literary credentials are impeccable) come from wide range of writers, poets and memoirists, including a memorable essay by Graham Greene, writing in 1964 from a village in Anjuna. One cannot help but wonder how Goa must have looked like then, before the hippie years, untouched and almost virgin country. The politics that gave credence to Goa and the burning issue of its independence from its neighbouring Maharashtra is given ample space, as is its syncretism before, during and after the Portuguese years with the Hindu faith. There are essays on Goan cinema and art, music, food, and of course, the little state’s much celebrated rains. There cannot but be a dark, rather sad undercurrent of nostalgia that runs through the book: Goa has lost as much, perhaps more, that it has gained by tourism and its fame as India’s party destination. And therein lies the paradox that this anthology puts forward to us thinking travellers. How do you reconcile the fact that what led you here will also soon strip the place of all its beauty, its unique culture and perhaps everything that is really Goan? What do you, as a tourist, owe Goa in return? A difficult question, with an equally difficult answer.
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