Donetsk region: salt mines, Sviatohirsk Holy Mountain, and an island of Love
An auto tour of all the locations listed in our review will take you more than two days. You can enjoy underground salt labyrinth, feed turtles and ostriches, admire magnificent views of Donetsk Switzerland, and taste delicious artisan cheeses.
Where: Soledar
Salt mines
Things to see: This unique complex of worked-out salt mines is open for tourists.
Visitors can ride a special shaft cage down to enjoy amazing underground world of salt: a church, a soccer field, folk art – all made of salt. Some of the most memorable ones: sculpture of a mythological spirit – Good Shubin, patron of Donetsk miners, guarding the underworld, and a palm tree, similar to Mertsalov’s palm (forged from a single steel rail), also made of salt.
Another amazing place to visit is “Camera 42-bis”. Located in Podbriancevsk formation, it is 42 meters high and over hundred meters long.
At depth of about 300 meters, in close proximity to tourist routs, there is a speleological sanatorium “Salt Symphony” with capacity to service 110 people. Sanatorium provides effective treatment of respiratory, skin, and thyroid diseases.
Interesting fact: In 2003 the mine got to the Guinness Book of Records with the world’s first underground hot air balloon flight that took place in famous “camera 41-bis”.
Where: Oleksandrovo-Kalynovo village, Kostiantynivka region
ATO Museum
Things to see: Natural history museum «Dovkilla» has one of its exhibitions dedicated to Anti-terrorist operation – it is the only ATO museum in Donetsk region.
Museum walls showcase military banners inscribed by soldiers, as well as paintings and letters that they received from Ukrainian kids. Unique hand-woven Coat of arms of Ukraine, made of surviving Donetsk airport defendants’ ammunition covers one of the walls.
Interesting fact: In 2014 the village of Oleksandro-Kalynovo made the news with its unfortunate tank incident, when separatists used village’s own combat vehicle against the Ukrainian army. In 1985 an WWII IS-3 heavy tank was placed on a pedestal in the village center. When Oleksandro-Kalynovo was taken by militants, they just put in the batteries, oil, and gas; got the vehicle running and drove it to Slavyansk. There the militants used it as armor against the Ukrainian Armed Forces. On retreat, they left the S-3 somewhere along Artemivsk rout. The tank is reported to be stored at the Museum of Strategic Missile Forces.
Where: Yampil village, Lyman district
Yampil Arboretum, ostrich farm and island of Love
Things to see: A park for newlyweds, eco-trail and arboretum with a zoo – all of this can be found at Yampil Forest Service.
Here you can rent a gazebo for family barbeque, take a walk down “Forest pearl” pass to the Chorny Zherebets (Black Stallion- ed.) river, and cross Hope and Faith bridges to get to island of Love with magnificent hundred year old 20 meter high trees. There is also a fairy playground for kids.
Interesting fact: The Chorny Zherebets river has a legend. The river used to be natural border between the Wild Field and Zaporizian Sich. Fights between Ukrainian Cossacks and nomads often happened on its banks. During one of such fights Cossack ataman rode his stallion into the river. Couple dozen enemies followed him and drowned in a whirlpool.
Where: Raihorodok village, between Slavyansk and Lyman
Chalk hills
Things to see: Though these are not actually hills, they are literally made of chalk. In fact, these are spoil tips (terricones) – handmade mounds of unusable chalk; and the view is breathtaking: woods and the Siversky Donets river on the north, famous Karachun mountain and Slavyansk-city on the east.
Interesting fact: The quarry was developed for the needs of nearby Slavyansk soda factory. As the quarry was being developed a layer of white writing chalk with concretions and plates of black flint and concretions of marcasite was discovered.
Where: Svyatohirsk
National Nature Park “The Holy Mountains” and goat cheese farm
Things to see: Google cites over 30 thousand requests when you type in “Sviatohirsk is a Donetsk Switzerland” in Ukrainian/Russian. National Nature Park “The Holy Mountains” is a combination of beautiful landscapes, most precious natural systems, and historical and cultural landmarks.
A trip to goat cheese farm “Sviatohirska koza” at Studenok village will be worth your while. It is a European style farm founded and operated by Makiivka resettlers Yan and Elvira Hatytski, who have a flock of goat, and make variety of artisan cheese.
Interesting fact: Svyatohirsk Lavra is one of the largest monasteries in Ukraine. It was the first settlement in the vastness of the Wild Field, and the oldest written record of this place is dated 1526.
Where: Prelesne village, Slavyansk region
Museum of Folk Architecture, Life and Children’s Art
Things to see: The museum was strted in 1983 with the rise of public interest in national culture, and desire to preserve national and ethnic cultural identity. This was the goal set by local ethnographer and artist Oleksandr Shevchenko.
He made ethnographic tour of nearby villages and collected cultural heritage items, folk songs and tales. Now the museum has diverse collection representing Slobitska Ukraine lore and life: artwork, embroidery, clothing, furniture, musical instruments.
Interesting fact: There is another place of interest in Prelesne. Manor of Vasili Bantysh, retired lieutenant, whose family became the first settlers here in 1780.
Luhansk region: horse farm and theater, underground monastery and Ram Foreheads rocks
Amazing places of the part of the region controlled by Ukraine are worth visiting and you will get better idea of Luhanshchyna lifestyle.
Where: Starobilsk
Ostap Bender monument
Things to see: Ostap Bender is a fictional con artist beloved in all of the former Soviet Union, and a main character of The Twelve Chair novel by Ilf and Petrov. Book starts at a town of Stargorod, and it was Starobilsk that served as prototype. You can just open the book and walk down the streets, watching the text intertwined with the town.
Interesting fact: Ostap Bender monument was erected in Starobelsk in 2008 in front of former girl school building, where the Luhansk Taras Shevchenko University was later relocated. The sculpture depicts the scene of “the great combinator’s” first appearance to town, as he talks to a homeless boy.
Where: Kreminna, Kreminskyi district
Museum of Angels
Things to see: Figurines and images of angels collected by Polina Tufekche, a young woman from Kreminna, are the main exhibits at the Museum of Angels that open on November 25 at Sviato-Sergievsky monastery. The exhibition consists of over thousand pieces of angel images, drawings, statues, embroideries, cards, dolls, icons etc., forty of which were innitially collected by Polina Tufekche.
Interesting fact: Visitors to the museum are constantly updating the exhibition as they donate their own angelic items!
Where: Novoaidarivskyi district, next to Aidar-Mykolaivka village
Ram Foreheads Rocks
Things to see: Rising amidst vast Donbas steppe (flat plain) geological nature monument Ram Foreheads Rocks is a famous picturesque sighting and tourist destination. 50-meters high limestone rocks were shaped by movement of huge glacier. Rocks are located on 2 hectare area on the right bank of the Aidar river.
Interesting fact: In 1993 memorial to Holodomor victims was open at the foot of the rocks.
Where: Novoderkul village, Bilovodkyi district
Derkul stud farm
Things to see: One of the oldest Ukrainian stud farms, founded 250 years ago, presents own thoroughbreds to its visitors. Horse races, stables and training grounds are among the best attractions. The building of the stub is designed in Classicial style with high arched hallways, acoustic halls and glass domes worth special attention. So-called Japanese playpen serves as training hall for thoroughbreds.
Interesting fact: Derkul stud farm, designed by architect Dominic Gilardi, is a historical-architectural monument of XVIII-XIX c. protected by law.
Where: Melove town, Milove district
Cossack horse theatre
Things to see: The theatre stages horse and traditional Ukrainian Cossack shows.
Orlov trotters, English thoroughbreds, Ukrainian breeds and draught horses are the actors of the theatre. In one-hour show both horses and their riders perform complicated and risky tricks. The spectators enjoy horse and pony rids after the show. Newly-weds can take a thoroughbred trotter carriage ride.
Interesting fact: Theater provides horse-riding lessons to local school kids. There they teach not just ride horses, but also take care of them. To train the youngest of its students, theatre bought two adorable ponies.
Where: south to Kremenna town, Kremenski district
Natural reserve “Dubovy Gai”
Things to see: Natural boundary reserve is a perfect place for a peaceful walk amidst century-old oaks and an incredible spot for a picnic. Of course, no campfire, and no littering is allowed on the land of the reserve. And you can spend a night at Kremenna town lodges or camp-sites. Hotel rooms start at UAH 250, and a camping space costs UAH 10 per person.
“Dubovy Gai” is a 300 year old unique natural oak forest on the bank of the Siversky Donets River. Some oaks here are as high as 25 meters.
Interesting fact: Forest area near Kremenna is called “the lungs of Donbas”. According to the legend, in 1185 a battle between Prince Igor of Kyiv and Polovtsi (the Cumans) tribes took place here.
Where: Preobrazhenske villge, Svativka district
Underground cave monastery
Things to see: Cave monastery near Svativka is not your regular tourist attraction. Up to 30 monks used live and pray here. But now it is just several underground premises connected by passages. Everything is preserved in the same way as it was hundreds of years ago.
Preobrazhenski cave monastery was built by monks in a chalk hill somewhere around the end of VIII the beginning of IX century. It was time of prosecution of believers who worshipped icons.
Interesting fact: The cave walls are covered in pictures representative of so called “people’s Christianity”. Some drawings have additional value as examples of early iconography. According to architects, there is nothing similar anywhere in Ukraine, or Europe. Detailed study of this landmark might be crucial to understanding history of Luhansk region.
Where: Starobilsk
Holy Mourn convent of Starobilsk
Things to see: Another Christian landmark for those seeking inner peace.
Holy Mourn convent was founded on the basis of shelter for orphaned girls, organized by a noble Angelina Bulich in 1849. In 1862 the orphanage was transformed into women’s community in honor of the icon of Mother of God "Joy of All Who Mourn". In 1870 the temple was built in honor of the Holy Trinity.
During the First World War monastery opened hospital for typhoid soldiers who were refused treatment by doctors. In 1924, Communists shot and arrested many of the sisters. Later, a military base was stationed at the premises, and then - a concentration camp. In 1993 the monastery restored its function.
Interesting fact: The main shrine of the cult place is an icon of the Mother of God "Joy of All Who Mourn". They say it truly works miracles, and despite turmoil it is still in the church.
Where: Krynychne village, Milove district
Stryltsivsky Steppe
Things to see: Stryltsivsky Steppe is a subdivision of Luhansk Nature Reserve. A tour to the vast terrains of the Steppe is ideal for those who love long solitary picturesque walks.
The reserve zone is a flat land surrounded by denes. It is special, as it is an etalon of unplowed lands, famous for its marmouts, horny hedgehogs, Sharp tulips, and wild peons. Most common plants are feather grass and fescue grass.
Interesting fact: Initially Stryltsivsky Steppe was a reserve for European marmot (baibak). This type of marmot had long become the symbol of the land. Today just a few baibak colonies are left.
Have a good week-end!
This review is prepared as a part of FreeСХІД.ua project by Donetsk Press Club
Photo from ukrainatravel.in.ua, informator.media, zruchno.travel, dn.depo.ua, ulitka.info.