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Book description
South America has two landlocked countries: Paraguay and Bolivia. Both are as dysfunctional as they come; and both have excellent books about their respective Brummagem cultures. For Paraguay, there is John Gimlettes At the Tomb of the Inflatable Pig. For Bolivia, we have In Bolivia by Eric Lawlor. (Though Gimlette went Lawlor one better when he subsequently wrote a book about Suriname and the Guyanas entitled Wild Coast.)Lawlor said he wrote this book because, according to his parents, this was the first word he ever enunciated as a baby. In my case, I am interested in Bolivia because -- back when I lived in Cleveland -- my father got a deal in some hot watches at the West Side Market. My brother got a Hormilton watch, while I got a Bolivia. It ceased to work within weeks, just like the eponymous country.I have toyed with the idea of visiting Bolivia on an upcoming trip to Peru (if it ever takes place). Still, I am a little worried about the soroche, or altitude sickness, as Brazil is either too high and cold or too hot and buggy, depending on where you go.I had originally read this book years ago and find it not to have aged too badly (unlike me). Lawlor spent several months traveling around the country, going to wedding parties with Indians, consorting with Cocaine Cowboys in Santa Cruz and getting stuck in that most Bolivian of institutions, namely: A whole town going on strike and barricading itself off from the world. He seems to have missed several tourist hot spots, such as the massive Salar de Uyuni salt flats. Lawlors concluding remarks are candid and interesting:I had come to this country certain Id like it. It was rebellious and unruly and defiant of authority. Rather stupidly, I thought I was too. How could we fail to get along? But Bolivia proved too rich for my blood. It had taught me that I place a greater value on the consolations of society than I realized. Asked, three months ago, which I prized more, impetuosity or restraint, I would have picked the former. But not now. In me the law of measure had its newest champion.So, in the end, I am glad that Lawlor had these, uh, exotic experiences, allowing me to enjoy them vicariously. I think that Peru would be quite enough for me, and Bolivia perhaps a bit over the edge.
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